Use your engine mount bolts to move the plastic template forward enough to see where you need to trim.įirewall extension: I just finished trying to install the engine for the first time today. Note: If you plan to mount the perimeter sheeting tabs behind the main sheet as opposed to in front as shown in the existing manual instructions, you will need to undersize the template all around the perimeter, about 1/8″, to account for the bend radius and thickness of the perimeter steel. Everything else should be properly positioned. I plan to undersize the drilling of the cage tab holes in this process, then final drill them from the rear on final installation. Then I can remove engine/mount, remove the plastic, and use it as a template to drill out the steel firewall. I will then install the engine and will mark and drill the plastic sheet, which is actually a customized template, to position everything to my liking. It’s easy to work with.įirewall installation: I have installed a 1/8″ thick piece of polycarbonate plastic (drills without cracking) as a dummy firewall. □ I don’t know how good it will be about cutting down sound, but it should work relatively well with the heat. Total cost about $27, but they make it up on the shipping cost which I thought was too high, but it still comes out a relatively cheap kit. ![]() I also bought the Sticky Stuff Spray Adhesive and the Insul-Tape. They were at OSH and I looked at their basic two-sided insulator kit. easier that way!įirewall insulation: I purchased the firewall insulation kit with double sided aluminum from Unlimited Quality Products, 710 W. Also, in drilling holes through the fuselage/ cowl joggle, I drilled from the outside in. ( If I have a fire that is so hot it melts those attach tab nuts off, I figure I’m dead anyway!) If you don’t do this you will have a distorted fire wall, vs a straight one. (Chris said that their supplier sent them the wrong ones) I plan to go ahead and just put regular ones on rather than wait for them. The hi temp nuts for these screw bolts were not in my kit, and not available at this time from S-H. But of course the ones supplied are too short for that, so you must procure longer screw bolts for those 10 attach tabs. The attach tab screw bolts will thus require washer shims. Be aware (again beware) that the attach tabs (10 of them!) are located about 1/8″ to 5/16″ aft of where the firewall ends up, due to the fwd face of the engine mount bushings protruding about 1/4 to 5/16 fwd of the attach tabs. (I tried to find some foil backed type but was unable) It makes a very close fitting, tight installation. It has a fiber reinforced facing on it which I have placed on the aft face. I have installed a section of fiberglass insulation (4″ thick – compressed) from my shop building. The firewall can “oilcan” very easily, so I wanted some kind of insulating firewall blanket on it to prevent that, as well as to provide fire protection and heat and noise insulation. that this is so that they can mount some of the float support system here. If you are this far along, be aware (also BEWARE) that the bottom two engine mount bushings are 5/16 shorter than the upper so it requires 5/16″ of washers or spacer in mounting the engine! (Not the best system in my mind!) I was told by Chris K. It cuts skin very fast–have bandaids handy. ![]() Be sure to wear gloves when handling that stainless steel. Firewall: I have installed the firewall pretty much according to the manual.
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